Showing posts with label trouser sew along. Show all posts
Showing posts with label trouser sew along. Show all posts

Friday, 4 February 2011

Trouser Muslin 2 and a decoration update


Given my hacking about of muslin 1 I decided that I should make a second muslin. As described in this post I decided that the crotch depth and the trouser length of muslin 1 needed shortening and I also decided to stick with the front pleats.

I transferred these changes to the paper pattern and duly cut muslin 2.

muslin 2 the front view

I think the fit is better here, certainly round the crotch, but I still have the pyjama sensation. Admittedly this is not helped by the fabric I am using as a muslin - it is slightly flannely so feels soft and warm to the touch which is nice and comfortable but doesn't give the sensation of looking tall and leggy!!

I think though, fit wise, I should take something off the width - perhaps taking the outer seams in a little which should also help the waist to fit better and stay up as at the moment it feels as though it is a little loose and therefore slips down.


muslin 2 side view

muslin 2 with side seams pinned in 2 cm on each side
As you can see from the caption above this is what it looks like with the side seams pinned in a little. Altogether better I think and now starting to ressemble proper trousers that could be worn out of the house rather than pull on pj bottoms!

muslin 2 with side seams pinned in

In other news little boy's room is nearly finished. His curtains are done and I have even made two assorted cushions to go on his reading chair (!). His bed is up and I am now just waiting a shelving unit and the room will be complete. The girl's new room is also up and running so the three little people are now all sleeping in their new rooms even if there is still a bit of decoration to be done, particularly in the girl's room.

The playroom is also nearly complete. After furrowing under chairs and down the back of sofas, not to mention checking every bag in the house I think I managed to find all the toys we own (or have managed to acquire). They were then duly sorted and each and every one now has its own place in the play room. Believe me, that was not an easy or quick task and I am more than glad it is done. (It also goes without saying that a large amount of things found their way into black bags and either to the Red Cross or the tip, but I can't say that out loud because three little people are totally unaware that there may have been toys in the house that didn't make it to the new playroom!)

I will try and get some photos of the new rooms to show you once they are all complete but for the moment here are a few little snippets of their new kingdom!

little boy's cushions on his reading chair (I should have spotted it was upside down...)

blue magnetic board, chalk board and a sneak of the curtains

have a nice day poster from here


family photos

the little boy himself

storage in the playroom

everything has it's place!
the playmobile 


even baby!

and reference books


and pens

the playroom ...so far

I am taking the next few days off in terms of decoration and so am hoping to get a little bit of sewing done. Those burda trousers will be mine!!

Have a good weekend.

Wednesday, 26 January 2011

To Burda or not to Burda




So my muslins are done (more on muslin 2 later today/tomorrow) and I am ready to cut into proper fabric. But before I do I thought I would retrace my steps and talk about patterns. Sunni is using Burda 127 pattern shown in the lovely button above.

If I am honest I was slightly hesitant to follow her lead.

Firstly, it is a 'tall' pattern, which isn't really a problem with the pattern admittedly but it does create some problems if one is not height gifted. Given that I measure 165cm I wouldn't normally go with a 'tall' pattern.

Secondly, Burda patterns have, as all patterns seem to, their own set of particularities, relating to the sizing chart to name just one. Also their inexplicable way of not adding seam allowances but then including the hem allowance and in this case, turn-up allowance never ceases to throw me.

Thirdly, I will admit that I am lazy and will nearly always choose a pattern that I can just cut out and trace round onto the fabric rather than one I have to print off, stick together, cut out, trace round and add my own seam allowances.

And, last but not least, the pattern is not like any pair of trouser that I normally wear. In fact I can honestly say that I have nothing similar in my wardrobe ('closet' for those of you over the Atlantic from here!) and it is not even the kind of trouser that I would normally even try on if out shopping.

But despite all that I decided to stick with it.

I felt, I will admit, that if Sunni has gone to all the effort of organising the sew along, writing and photo imaging detailed construction and fitting instructions then I should go with the pattern she has chosen (this is by no way criticising those who have chosen other patterns - no one style is for everyone and maybe if I had already got a different trouser pattern I too would have been tempted to go with that instead).

I also felt quite excited at the thought of trying to make this kind of trouser fit and suit me (given it is not my usual style choice). I have, for a while now, hankered after a smart pair of black trousers and the more I thought about it the more I thought that this pattern could maybe be made to work here.

Besides, Sunni promised me that if I made these trousers I would look tall and leggy. And who wouldn't want to look tall and leggy?

So Burda 127 it is.

But having decided to stay with Burda 127 that didn't stop me perusing other trouser patterns. The main pattern companies didn't inspire me much but then I happened upon Hot Patterns - and I think I have found my trouser pattern heaven!

Take a look at these




Classic Nouveau Dressy Jean



Colette Patterns is organising a Spring Palette Challenge - see more details here and I can see one or two of these patterns making their way into my little capsule spring collection (now doesn't that sound exciting!).

xxx

Tuesday, 25 January 2011

An evening with Burda 127



Who says you can't have fun on a cold January evening in rural France?

I finally got round to finishing off the muslin of Burda 127, trying it on and photographing it. All this was done after nightfall hence the 'glow' of the photos!

After reading some of the comments about this pattern I decided to cut size 72. My measurements were actually between this size and the next one up but as so many people had found their muslins drowning them I went for the smaller size...and as you can see there was still somewhat of a drowned effect!


muslin 1 the front view
My main problem with the front view is the feeling of excess fabric in the front  leg sections (there is obviously the length problem too but given that this is a tall pattern I was assuming that goes without saying). The crotch is also a bit low and the width could do with taking in maybe but I have to say that overall I was not quite as daunted as I had expected to be (having read that some people are on their 5th muslin I had expected much worse).


Muslin 1 the back view
 The back view I was actually quite happy with. The photos show a lot of creasing but most of that is, I confess, due to lack of ironing rather than problems with the fit.

Muslin 1 the side view.
 Again, I was happily surprised to find the side view not too bad - it confirmed my feeling of excess on the front leg sections but otherwise I'm pretty happy.

So, given that Sunni has written some great fitting posts and I have a book that promises a 'perfect fit' if you follow their fitting advice what do you think I did next?

Yep - I went right off piste and decided to see whether if I redrafted the front leg section altogether, omitting the pleat, this would solve the excess fabric issue!

You see I wasn't keen on the pleaty baginess around the front of my crotch - are you with me??

But rather than redoing the whole muslin because although I do live in rural France and it is January I still have some kind of life (really) and probably also because I realised I really was going out on a bit of a whim I decided to just try out my theory on one leg.

I know, genius!

I then decided that I should probably adhere to some proper fitting advice and shorten the crotch depth and length as well.

So here is muslin 1B (with my left leg with newly drafted without pleat section).

Muslin 1B front view
 And do you know what? once the crotch and length are pinned up I actually prefer the side with the pleat. Now I am really glad I only altered one front leg!

Muslin 1B back view
 I admit that it was starting to get late now so I couldn't be bothered to properly pin the back and side sections but I did start a second proper muslin taking into account the alterations which I will hopefully photograph tonight.
Muslin 1B side view
 And, as Sunni promised me tallness and leggyness if I went with this pattern I thought I would try the muslin with these shoes...
tall and leggy?
I mean, trousers can only do so much....